Subfloor preparation

Every floor is only as good as what is under it. Flat, dry, clean and firm.

Flat

Lay a 2 m straightedge (or long spirit level) across the floor in several directions. Measure the largest gap under it.

Grind or sand high spots. Fill hollows with a self-levelling compound after priming. Small dips can be filled with a trowel-applied repair mortar.

Dry

New sand-cement screed dries slowly: a rough rule is a week per centimetre for the first 4 cm, and much longer beyond. Test it with a moisture meter or a CM test before laying wood or laminate. Anhydrite (calcium sulphate) screeds have much stricter limits than cement screeds.

On concrete and screed, a floating floor needs a vapour barrier: 0.2 mm PE foil with 20 cm overlaps, taped and turned up at the walls. For timber subfloors, do not use foil; check the moisture of the boards instead.

Clean and firm

Remove old adhesive ridges, nails and staples. Screw down any creaking timber boards. Vacuum thoroughly; grit under a floating floor causes squeaks.

Old floors underneath

Many floating floors can go over existing tiles if they are firm and flat; fill wide grout lines. Never lay over carpet or soft vinyl.