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Vinyl plank comes in two main kinds. LVT (luxury vinyl tile) is flexible and is either glued down or has a click edge. SPC and other rigid-core planks have a stiff mineral-plastic core that bridges small dips and clicks together like laminate. This page covers click planks laid as a floating floor.
What makes vinyl different
The surface is waterproof, so it works in kitchens and bathrooms. Vinyl reacts to temperature rather than humidity: it grows in heat and direct sun. That is why a smaller gap is enough, but the room temperature during installation matters.
Thin planks follow every bump in the floor. Any ridge or hollow will show through or stress the click joint, so subfloor preparation is the most important part of the job.
Key numbers
| Rule | Typical value |
|---|---|
| Acclimatise | 24–48 hours at 18–27 °C |
| Expansion gap | 5–8 mm (check the box) |
| Shortest piece | 15–20 cm |
| End joint stagger | At least 15–20 cm |
| Subfloor flatness | Usually max 2 mm under a 2 m straightedge |
| Underlay | Only a thin type approved by the maker, often 1–1.5 mm, or none if attached |
Installation in short
- Level the subfloor. Fill joints, cracks and dips with levelling compound and sand down high spots.
- Acclimatise the planks and keep the room at normal temperature during and after the job.
- Lay a vapour barrier on concrete if the product requires one.
- Start in a corner with spacers. Rows run along the longest wall or towards the main window.
- To cut across, score the top layer with a sharp utility knife against a square and snap the plank. Rigid core can be snapped the same way.
- Reuse offcuts from the end of one row to start the next, keeping joints apart.
- Do not put fixed kitchen units or heavy built-ins on a floating vinyl floor.
Large windows: big south-facing glass can heat vinyl enough to make it buckle. Use blinds, or choose a glue-down product for conservatories.